July 05, 2010
All she rote
June 15, 2010
Back
A cold snap killed all the mosquitoes.
You painted your deck.
Year 2 started without me.
April 06, 2010
Northern getaway
She was loud. She was gesturing. I wanted to smack her.
The Easter weekend shoppers unfortunate enough to be ahead of her in the lineup - which stretched beyond the checkout counter, past the Chex boxes in the cereal aisle, and beneath her wagging finger - wore sympathetic half-smiles and looked down at the tiled floor in an exhibition of the kind of "be the bigger person" tolerance that keeps people like me from telling a stranger to shut the eff up.
This loud, gesturing, finger-wagging young woman was saying, to anyone within earshot, that she'd only been in Inuvik a week and already she couldn't wait to leave. I mean, come on. There's only one grocery store open on Good Friday and I have to wait? I've been standing here for, like, two minutes already. This shit is not OK.
An older lady in front of her turned around as they inched closer to the cashier, who was keeping up a no doubt self-preservatory appearance of oblivion, and softly tried to explain, probably not wanting a brand new resident to base her opinions of the town on some less than speedy service at the Northern store.
"They've been really understaffed here lately," she said with another well-meaning half-smile. "And it is a holiday."
But the other woman was shaking her head, plunking her pile of loosely held groceries on the floor in front of her, crossing her arms. Excuses, excuses. This is just a symptom of the general laissez-faire philosophy around these parts.
"No one cares," she sneers. "It's like in South America, except with the opposite climate. Here, it's slow and cold. It's so weird!" she guffaws, as if trying to fill an obnoxiousness quota.
She didn't mention where she was from, that magical place where nobody ever has to wait in line and where everything is done right right when you want it, but she did make clear that she fully intended to go back there very soon. A heads up to start planning a going away party, I guess.
"I'm only staying long enough to collect my Northern residents' deduction," she said, presumably to the lady in front of her, who by now had turned her back. "And then I'm gonna take the government's money and run."
Though I've never heard it put so callously, I know that "take the money and run" attitude is almost inescapable in "southern adventurer" working circles. I've lived here less than a year and I've seen it happen over and over and over again. Even though I'm still a Northern newbie, Ms. Finger Wag's comments hurt my feelings.
This place is becoming more a part of me than I realized it would.
March 31, 2010
Floating away
Can you imagine?
That's what happened to a group of sport hunters and guides looking for a trophy off the coast of Paulatuk one night last week. Melting ice is all-too-common cause of death/injury/missing bodies in the North. This group was rescued by helicopter early the next morning, thanks to an emergency GPS satellite 911 signal, but not before one of them slipped off the edge of the ice floe and got hypothermia. I covered it for the paper and since then I haven't been able to shake the story from my mind, wondering how I'd deal in such a circumstance. Such wonderment requires intense introspection and self-scrutiny. So, instead of intro-scrutinizing, I decided I can't possibly know how I'd cope unless (UNTIL?) I'm in that situation.
Not that I'd go looking to get myself in such a dangerously helpless predicament, but I'd also not turn down a hunting expedition (anyone want to invite me along next time?) for fear. The guarantee of a fantastic adventure pretty much outweighs the possibility of an icy death.
Still, the whole thing got me thinking about how the hunters must have felt at that moment of realization when the ice broke away, how I'd feel, how anybody would feel. Overwhelmingly out of control. And what's it like to feel that way in daily life, even if you're nowhere near the Arctic Ocean? Some people do. (Get ready for a rocky segue).
The top three medical conditions in the Northwest Territories, based on the types of drugs most frequently claimed through the Government of the Northwest Territories Health and Social Services department*, are:
1. Diabetes
2. Asthma
3. Mental illness
*also the source of this information.
Anti-depressants are the government's highest health claim expenditure, after medicine/equipment to treat diabetes.
This was news to me. (See what I did there?) We hear about the diabetic epidemic in the North, but we still don't hear/learn/know so much about mental health issues - not as much as we should. And I know it's too early for some kind of public service announcement (plus I generally loathe PSAs) about National Mental Health Week (which isn't until May 3-9, sandwiched between National Hospice Palliative Care Week and Naturopathic Medicine Week - now you know) but....whew. (Too many brackets.) Where was I going here? Right. Out of control.
Point is, and I sometimes forget to remember this, we're not all trapped on ice floes. And even if we are, there's GPS.
March 24, 2010
Surprise
The day after writing my previous post, the one in which I whine about the tardiness of spring, I walked through the snow to work, immediately noticing and admiring a bunch of daffodils on my coworker's desk. OK, so my admiration may have consisted of an envious glare and a demand to know "Where'd you get the flowers?!" Anyway. My coworker, he replied:
"Look on your desk."



March 22, 2010
My apartment shakes
But it doesn't look or feel much like spring around here just yet.

March 15, 2010
The hardest part
Roberta Memogana slides a heavy sheet of blank paper across the table toward me.
"First, we need to draw something."
Easy for her to say. And do. Roberta Memogana is a well-known NWT artist, originally from Ulukhaktok (formerly called Holman), famous for her stencil prints of traditional Northern life (see some of her work here.)
For 16 years, she's been printmaking – a craft she learned from her father, Jimmy Memorana, one of the founders of the Ulukhaktok Art Co-op, through which artists in the community of about 400 have been producing prints for nearly 50 years.
And that's why I'm here, at Inuvik's Northern Images art gallery on a bright Saturday morning alongside two other eager students – to learn from her, and (if all goes well) to make a stencil print of my own. Because it sounds like fun. But, drawing? Freehand? Uh-oh.
I look to my left and then to my right, trying to gauge the reactions of my fellow workshop participants, making no effort not to look like I've just been told I must throw a puppy out a third-storey window. There's something sacred about looking into a stranger's eyes and knowing you're both silently having a panic attack. "I can't draw!"
Artistic ability is subjective, I suppose. So here's a fact: I don't draw. I don't paint or sculpt or sketch or create anything anybody would want to hang on the refrigerator, much less put in a picture frame and display above the couch. I don't even doodle in my notebook during long-winded phone interviews. Despite having quite a lot of appreciation for fine art, I haven't actually done any artsy stuff since those mandatory elementary school art classes I couldn't wait to leave behind. My Grade 8 teacher, Mrs. Bouchard, upon finding out I hadn't signed up for a single high school art course, showed hyperbolic shock and appall.
"You'll regret that someday," she told 13-year-old me, who knew everything anyway and didn't care.
So now, maybe today is that regretful day. Mind as blank as the paper in front of me, I turn again to Roberta, who smiles patiently. No sign of a "why are you even here?" eye-rolling smirk, although I wouldn't blame her.
"It can be anything you want," she says. "Then we'll make a stencil out of it."
She gestures to a pile of transparent overhead projector sheets (known by the pros as mylar) and pen-like X-Acto knives. Beside them on the table are a scattering of barbershop-style shaving brushes, their bristle-ends coloured blue, yellow, red, green, orange, brown, black, and there's a placemat covered in matching ink splotches. The oil-based inks are solid in individual packs ordered from down south, "probably Toronto," and she keeps them all in a plastic bag. If it gets too hot, they will melt. It's better in the cold. But the colour comes later, Roberta says. She's already finishing up a pencil sketch of a "simple" igloo. Her word, "simple." My word: "mind-blowing."
I decide to try my hand at an owl stencil. Paintings of snowy owls feature prominently on the gallery walls – convenient inspiration. In Inuvialuit culture, Roberta tells me, the owl is a symbol of good luck. I've never seen one in real life, I say, so that explains a lot.
Roberta can't draw any wildlife she's never seen. She draws them the way she sees them. And she draws them fast. I take a break from erasing my wacky-looking owl eyeballs for the fourth time to watch her work.
"My father used to tell me to take my time. I'd say, 'what do you mean?' And he would say, 'you're drawing too fast!' I said, 'but, I am taking my time,'" she laughs. Of course, traditional stencil printing is much easier now than it was in her father's day. He used to cut his stencils out of sealskin.
Her older sister, Mary K. Okheena, a talented artist herself, motivated Roberta to start making prints of her drawings. Now, her work is in galleries all over Canada. Tourists visiting the Beaufort-Delta region can quickly pick out her prints on framed canvas, greeting cards, and even T-shirts commemorating the Inuvik Community Greenhouse.
She still has piles of drawings at home that she's never made into prints, she says, simultaneously cutting out her igloo stencil, twirling the knife expertly around its curves. Circular shapes are the most difficult for first-timers, but she makes it look deceptively easy.
She's generous with her secrets, though, and amazingly I manage not to maim myself or my little owl – much, since I'm really more interested in listening to her stories than creating a masterpiece. And it shows. By the time I'm ready for the printing part of the exercise – the colour! – Roberta has already completed two prints and is working on yet another sketch, of two polar bears, that a gallery customer has just come in and requested.
Roberta distributes ink onto the brush by thump, thump, thumping it onto the appropriate-coloured splotch until there's just the right amount. She knows when. She makes her own beat.

Stencil print artist Roberta Memogana with one of her finished prints.

As for my foray into artistry, it didn't work out nearly as well compared to Roberta's talent and experience, but, all things considered, I don't think my owls turned out too horribly.
Stencil print artists generally make three proofs before they settle on a final piece, and I only finished two. So that pretty much sums up my career as an artist. But Roberta said they were cute!
And, like I said, I'm interested in the story more than the pictures.